Wednesday, August 2, 2017

Master Detective Curio Cabinet by Sandy Trefger Part One

Hello, Sandy here with a fun project for you!  I've created this fabulous Master Detective Curio Cabinet filled with all of Sherlock Holmes' "collectibles" that he uses to solve a case. I've created this out of the Gypsy Soul Laser Cuts China Cabinet kit which measures 14 inches tall x 10 inches wide and Graphic 45's Master Detective paper collection. I've also added a bonus secret compartment on the back that will hold a very large folio album.  

I've got a ton of step-by-step photos to share with you on how I put my China Cabinet kit together and turned it into a mysterious Curio Cabinet for Sherlock Holmes.  In order to not overwhelm you, I'm splitting up this tutorial into two parts.  Today is Part One and I will share Part Two on August 16th.  So grab a comfy chair and your favorite drink and let's get started!

Supplies Used:
  • Gypsy Soul Laser Cuts China Cabinet # B4A
  • Gypsy Soul Laser Cuts Bonus Box for the #B4A China Cabinet - Custom Item, Contact the Store
  • Black 12 x12 Cardstock
  • 12" Trimmer
  • 12" Score Board and Bone Folder
  • Art Glitter Designer Glue (White Glue)
  • 3-in-1 Glue
  • Glossy Accents
  • Black Masking Tape
  • 3/8" Scor-tape
  • Clear Transparency Sheets 
  • Black Ink and Foam Applicator
  • Halloween embellishments
  • Assorted Ribbons-4 to 6 different colors and designs
  • Basic Grey Magnet Snaps, small
  • Metal hinges - 2 small and 2 mediuim
  • Metal Latch - 1
  • Small Brads and Large Brads
  • Eyelets
  • Assorted charms & chains
  • Prima Flower
  • Steampunk bottles and other embellishments
  • Tim Holtz Mini Bottles
  • Assorted Miniature Items
  • Tim Holtz Door Knob (for decorative item inside cabinet)
  • Fall Leaves and Mini Pumpkin Floral Pick
See photo below for ideas of different items you can add into your curio cabinet.

Step 1:  Open up your China Cabinet kit and use a baby wipe or damp cloth to wipe off the edges to remove black laser residue.  The kit does not come with labeled pieces but it is pretty self explanatory so lay out your pieces to get an idea of how it goes together.  You can glue your cabinet together by using the pre-cut slots and paint all the edges black or you can do as I did and cut 12" x 1" (score 1" side at 1/2") structure and finishing hinges out of black cardstock.

Step 2:  When assembling (either method--glue only or structure hinges) apply white glue into the slots as shown in this photo.

Step 3:  Put the sides on to the back section and hold to allow the glue to set.  You might want to use a bit of masking tape or construction tape to hold the sections together as the glue dries as shown in the second photo below.

Step 4:  Continue to glue the shelves and drawer sections into the cabinet.  Use tape to hold the sections together while the glue dries.

Step 5:  Before attaching the top section of the cabinet on, measure and cut structure hinges and attach to the inside as shown.  You will want to glue in a hinge into each seam joint of the cabinet.  

Step 6:  Next, attach the top section of the cabinet with glue and secure with a structure hinge.

Step 7:  On the back of the cabinet, apply a bit of glue into each notch as shown. You might want to use black masking tape to cover each section on the back after you've added the glue.

Step 8:  Continue to glue a structure hinge into each seam line of the cabinet until all have been added.

Step 9:  For the structure hinges on the drawer section of the cabinet, Measure and cut the hinges the length of the drawer section and attach the inner side of the hinge down, Use scissors to cut into the hinge where the shelf is and then attach the remaining side.

Step 10:  For the sides of the top "shelf" (the widest shelf at the very top), Measure the sides and cut a structure hinge to fit.  Where the shelf meets the side of the cabinet, cut a slot in the hinge and attach it down as shown.  This will wrap that end piece of the shelf.

Step 11: Measure and cut hinges to finish the front edges of each shelf.  For the one on the drawer section, you will use scissors to cut each section for the underside and attach down.  Burnish well as you do not want the paper to come up when you insert the drawers later.

Step 12:  Apply finishing hinges to the back edges of the cabinet.

The next photo shows you how to again cut the hinge on one side to make it fit around a shelf when finishing the outer edge of the cabinet.

Step 13:  Continue finishing all the edges of the cabinet by adding hinges as shown.

This is another photo showing you how to miter cut for a shelf when adding a finishing hinge.

Step 14:  You will also finish the outer edges of the drawer section of the cabinet.

Miter cut the hinge on one side to go around each drawer divider.

 Cut a line for the outer edge as shown.

 Attach down, finishing the corner as shown and burnish well.

 Continue to wrap all the sections of the drawer dividers--top, sides and bottom.

Miter cut on the corners of the drawers as needed to finish the edges.

Step 15:  To eliminate paper bulk which might hinder the drawers from sliding in and out of the cabinet, Use black acrylic paint and paint the inside sections as shown.

Step 16:  While the paint in the drawer sections dry, Cut one 12" length of hinge as shown by making "v" cuts with your scissors on each 1/2" side up to the fold line.  Important--do not cut the fold line!

Step 17:  Open up the hinge and add glue to one side as shown.  Attach it to the curve piece on the top of the cabinet.  

Step 18:  Assemble the drawers with glue only.  Adding cardstock hinges to the drawers will add too much bulk and cause the drawers to not slide in and out.  Use plenty of glue in the notches and hold the sections with your hands or masking tape until dry.

Note: You have two options for the fronts of your drawers.  If you do not want to add knobs, you can use the ends with the thumb notches as the front.  However, if you do want knobs, you will use the ends with the pre-punched knob hole as the front.  For my curio cabinet, I decided to turn the drawers around and add knobs.

 Step 19:  Paint the outside of the drawers black as you do not want to add any patterned paper to the sides of the drawers.  Make sure to paint the edges of the front and back black as well and the edges on the inside of the drawers.  You will also paint your window frames black on both sides and on the edges as shown. Allow to dry.

 Step 20:  Attach scor-tape along the window frames on one side of each as shown.

 Step 21:  Cut two pieces of clear transparency sheets to fit the windows, Peel off the tape backing and carefully attach the transparency sheets to create "glass" for the windows.

Step 22:   Measure and cut strips of patterned paper to cover the outer frame of each window on one side only.

 Attach the widest strips on first.

Then miter cut the narrow strips as shown and attach down on to the sides and over the wider patterned paper strips.

Step 23:  Use a pencil and the sides of your cabinet to trace patterned paper to cover the sides.  Cut out with scissors and ink the edges if desired with black ink and a foam applicator.

 Glue to the sides of the cabinet.

Step 24:  Place the hinges on the windows, mark the holes and punch out.  Attach with small brads and Glossy Accents.  Make sure your hinge folds up on the patterned side which is the front of the windows.

Step 25:  Place the windows on the front of your cabinet with it lying down flat.  Line them up straight, mark the holes for the hinges to attach to the cabinet.  If you  have a drill and a small drill bit, you can use that to drill the holes into the cabinet.

Attach the hinges with small brads and glossy accents.  Allow to dry.

Step 26: Open up the windows and open up the prongs of the brads and make sure to press them down flat and keep them tight to hold the hinges in place.  Add a bit of glossy accents to the brad prongs.  Allow to dry.

Step 27:  While the hinges and brad prongs dry, create two door pulls out of two large brads and two eyelets.

You will insert the brad into the eyelet as shown with the shank of the eyelet toward the head of the brad.

Step 28:  Punch a hole into each inner frame of the windows in the middle right over the shelf.  Insert the assembled brad and eyelet with both on the outside and open up the prongs on the inside, turn the prongs so they do not stick out of the frame section.  Use glossy accents to secure the door pulls you attached and the brad prongs.  Allow to dry.

Step 29:  Measure and cut patterned paper to cover the inside of the cabinet, the shelves, the front and back of the drawers (do not put patterned paper on the outer bottom or sides of the drawers).  If you want to add drawer knobs, add those before patterning the inside of the drawers. Also do not pattern the inside sides of the cabinet until the bonus box is attached in Part Two.   Use a pencil to trace the shape of the top of the cabinet and cut two patterned papers to cover that section front and back.   

That's it for today!

Check back here on the blog on August 16 when I will continue the tutorial for assembling and adding the box to the back of the cabinet.  This will create a secret hiding place for a large folio album that I'm designing for Graphic 45.  I will also share how I decorated and finished my curio cabinet.

This cabinet is so much fun to create and looks fabulous.  For those of you in Texas and surrounding states, I will be teaching a class to create this project at Flossie Scrapper in Joshua, Texas in September. In class, we will assemble an unfinished cabinet and folio album so that attendees can pattern it in any paper collection of their choice.

Thank you so much for following along with me today and check back on the 16th for Part Two.  For more of my crafty projects and information about classes, visit my blog/website at:

Happy Crafting!

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